Couture Week SS23, or the power of fashion sensations

Another fashion week in Paris has come to an end, but the excitement is still alive. The fashion world finally had a chance to see the spring collections for the coming year. Starting with Schiaparelli’s controversial show on Monday and ending with Fendi’s show on Thursday evening, there was a lot going on on the Paris catwalk. During the 29 couture shows over these four days, we had the opportunity to see many breathtaking creations and designer hand-sewn accessories.

Nevertheless, attention has also been drawn, to the crushing influence of social media on what used to happen behind closed doors. The Couture Fashion Weeks are already shrouded in considerable controversy due to their elitism, and this time the voices of outrage also reached the show of French avant-garde fashion house Schiaparelli. Undoubtedly, this year’s event went well beyond the circle of celebrities and industry influencers.

Couture a niche market

Couture Fashion Week is one of the most important events in the fashion industry. It takes place twice a year and is a presentation of the most exclusive fashion – clothes made by hand and sold for dizzying amounts of money. Anyway, the very phrase couture refers to clothing produced only to order and is the opposite of the so-called “ready to go” fashion, generally available to everyone.

It is often said that couture style shows are also an opportunity to expand the market among stars and celebrities. Whatever the reason that drives this exclusive event, let’s take a look at a couple of interesting collections that drew crowds to Paris.

Animal accent in Schiaparelli collection

Undeniably, the collection presented by the Schiaparelli fashion house received the most media coverage. The creative director of the Roseberry brand decided to give expression to his innovativeness, and so the models’ dresses were decorated with animal heads. The attached lions, panthers and wolves were made of hand-carved foam, wool and silk artificial fur. All of this gave extraordinary realism to the animal dummies.

In addition to being full of surrealistic touches, the silhouettes also alluded to the symbolism of hell from Dante’s “Divine Comedy.” On the catwalk, there were huge in size jeweled forms and masks, creations with extreme waistlines and interesting variations on the theme of the suit. One thing is certain, Schiaparelli’s fashion did not so much rub shoulders with art as it became it.

Nevertheless, the show faced a very mixed response. Words of admiration and appreciation were mixed with scandal over the use of animal symbolism as an element of clothing. However, the words of Benjamin Simmenauer, a professor at the Institut Français de la Mode, are important:

“Couture is usually not about reflecting society. That’s the role of ready-to-wear. Couture is more about celebrating craftsmanship, so couture usually doesn’t make waves. The Schiaparelli scandal felt like something new for couture.”

Stunning sets

However, Couture Fashion Week is not just about clothes. Dior together with artistic director of women’s collections Maria Grazie Chiuri, showed the world a collection created in tribute to great female performers: French dancer Josephine Baker, French actress Marpessie Dawn and American singer Earthie Kitt. A collection full of contrasts.

Black and white, fitted silhouettes accompanied by oversize, soft sensual gowns right next to silhouettes directly borrowed from the men’s closet. And all this was complemented by a remarkable set design produced by artist Mickalene Thomas, featuring giant portraits of African-American women, “symbolizing a new pantheon of women.”

In contrast, in the case of Chanel, The scenography consisted of large moving sculptures by French artist Xavier Veilhan made of cardboard, wood and paper, inspired by women’s majorette costumes at parades. In turn, the models were dressed in spectacular hats, bow ties, satin capes, pleated skirts, sequins and petticoats.