“Black Swan” Chanel

The Parisian fashion house Chanel has been plunged into mourning after the quiet, unexpected departure of its creative director. Virginie Viard is Chanel’s symbolic “black swan.” Just three weeks after her shocking resignation, the brand unveiled its final haute couture collection in a show shrouded in an air of melancholy and controversy. The very location of the show—the majestic Opéra Garnier—seemed to reflect the somber mood of the event. Viard’s absence from the show, the woman who had shaped Chanel’s vision for nearly three decades, served as a painful reminder of her absence not only from the collection, but from the entire brand.

The Spring-Summer 2024/25 collection, titled “Black Swan,” seemed to serve as a symbolic farewell to Viard. Black dominated—the color of mourning and melancholy. Heavy satin gowns, reminiscent of mourning cloaks, drifted down the runway like ghosts of Chanel’s former glory. Even the first and last looks of the collection—a black satin dress perfectly suited for a Venetian doge’s funeral—emphasized the drama of the moment. Despite its meticulous execution, the show left observers with a sense of emptiness and longing. It also lacked the spark, brilliance, and joy that so defined Chanel’s collections during Karl Lagerfeld’s era.

In the shadow of a giant and the pressure to succeed

Virginie Viard spent years honing her craft in the shadow of Karl Lagerfeld, becoming his right hand and confidante. In 2019, after the maestro’s passing, she faced the formidable challenge of taking the helm at Chanel, one of the world’s most iconic fashion houses. At first, she handled it brilliantly. Under her watchful eye, the brand flourished, reaching a record-breaking sales figure of nearly $20 billion in 2023. However, over time, the first murmurs of criticism began to surface. There were whispers about repetitive designs and a lack of the spark and freshness that had defined Lagerfeld’s collections.

The turning point came in May, when the “cruise” show in Marseille disappointed fans. The chilly atmosphere of the Côte d’Azur didn’t suit the summer looks, and internet users openly voiced their dissatisfaction, questioning Viard’s vision and accusing her of lacking talent. A month later, in the middle of the night, a terse press release announced Viard’s departure from Chanel.

In the fashion world, it is customary for departing designers to bid farewell to a brand with a spectacular show, like a final bow to fans and the industry. However, Viard did not take this opportunity. Apparently, she was so shocked by the decision to dismiss her that she hurriedly left the Chanel headquarters on rue Cambon, leaving behind a storm of emotions. Ultimately, the collection for the Spring-Summer 2024/25 season was completed by Chanel’s in-house design team. Although the collection was far from “vintage” status, it received a moderate reception.

“Black Swan” Chanel

The “Black Swan” Chanel show opened with the melancholic 1960s track “Sympathy” by Rare Bird. The song’s lyrics, speaking of “cold and darkness,” perfectly captured the mood of the collection, infused with a sense of melancholy and chill. The models, like bored mannequins, walked the runway in simple suits. Blazers, stripped of the classic four pockets, buttoned up to the neck and adorned with trimmings, were paired with pleated skirts falling just above the knee. Minimalist cuts and subdued colors—black, white, and beige—further emphasized the collection’s raw and cool character.

Another highlight of the show were the classic Chanel jackets with short necklines and flap pockets. This time, the fashion house opted for shades of aubergine and the Queen of England’s peach, adding a touch of warmth and femininity to the collection. However, the true gems of the show appeared at the end. Metallic cocktail dresses with mutton sleeves dazzled with their shine and originality. The absolute star of the show was a fabulous ecru latex dress, finished with white coq feathers and a sequined bodice. This creation, like a symbol of hope, illuminated the collection’s dark mood and offered a promise of a brighter tomorrow.

Viard is therefore leaving Chanel under a cloud of ambiguity and speculation. Parisian designer Lutz Huelle defended her, emphasizing the immense challenge she faced in replacing an icon like Lagerfeld. “Regardless of how her work is judged, no one can deny she was put in an impossible position,” Huelle commented. The question remains, whether the weight of Lagerfeld’s legacy proved too heavy a burden, and whether she ultimately failed to meet the expectations of the fashion giant. Only time will tell what the future holds for Chanel without her creative genius.