What is Brooks Brothers? – History, style, and where to buy

The brand Brooks Brothers is a true institution of American men’s fashion, known primarily for its classic formal wear and preppy style that has defined elegance for generations of Americans. The company can boast something that almost no other company has:

The oldest continuously operating clothing brand in USA, founded on April 7, 1818 in New York by Henry Sands Brooks.

But why is everyone talking about it right now? First of all, in 2025 Brooks Brothers opened a new flagship store at 195 Broadway in New York, which is meant to be the showcase of the revived brand. This is a strong signal that the company is getting back on track after some turbulent years. Since 2025, it has also been operating under the wing of Catalyst Brands, which has brought a fresh approach to the business. Additionally, in the same year, the brand is celebrating the 125th anniversary of its legendary button-down collar shirt, that iconic piece which (it’s safe to say) changed men’s fashion forever.

In the following section, you will find a condensed history of the company, see what it currently offers, learn where to buy its products, and discover the most important controversies that have surrounded the brand over the years.

What kind of company is Brooks Brothers?

Brooks Brothers is the oldest clothing company in the United States, with a history spanning over two centuries. On April 7, 1818, Henry Sands Brooks opened the first store at the corner of Catherine Street and Cherry Street in New York, guided by the philosophy of “offering the best quality at a fair margin.” After his death in 1833, his sons took over the business, and in 1850 they changed the name to Brooks Brothers, simultaneously introducing the iconic ” Golden Fleece ” logo (a symbol of British wool merchants and the Order of the Golden Fleece), which has endured to this day.

Symbols and innovations that defined the brand

The company practically invented the modern suit business in America. Key milestones:

• ca. 1849 – introduction of the first ready-to-wear collection (previously, everything was made to measure)
• 1896/1900 – the button-down collar, which became synonymous with American style
• 1904 – Shetland sweaters
• ~1910 – polo coat, the favorite coat of athletes
• 1930s – seersucker suits (a lightweight fabric perfect for hot weather)
• 1998 – non-iron shirts, a true breakthrough in comfort

Abraham Lincoln wore a Brooks Brothers coat to his second inauguration (1865), and later was shot while wearing that same coat. This shows how deeply the brand is rooted in American culture.

Ownership changes and development direction

Ownership history of Brooks Brothers is a real rollercoaster. After 128 years in family hands, in 1946 it was taken over by Garfinckel, then Allied (1981), followed by Marks & Spencer for about $750,000,000 (1988). In 2001, Claudio Del Vecchio bought the brand for around $225,000,000 through Retail Brand Alliance, but the pandemic crisis led to bankruptcy. In 2020, SPARC Group (Simon Property and Authentic Brands) acquired the company for $325,000,000. Since 2025, the owner is Catalyst Brands, which opened a new flagship at 195 Broadway, replacing the historic headquarters at 346 Madison Avenue (which had operated since 1915).

The expansion to Japan in 1979 turned out to be a hit, as the Japanese fell in love with the American preppy style.

What does Brooks Brothers offer today?

The DNA of the brand is still rooted in masculine classics. Suits, Oxford shirts with button-down collars, chinos, and ties. These are products the company has been making for decades, and they still form the core of its sales. But honestly? The range is now much broader and more interesting than you might expect.

Men’s classics and bestsellers

Suits are available in several fits, such as “Classic” (a looser cut) and “Regent” (slimmer), making it easier to find one that suits your body type. Shirts now come in “non-iron” versions (they really don’t wrinkle) and fabrics with stretch, which may sound mundane but actually makes a big difference in comfort. The higher-end ” Golden Fleece ” line features pieces made in the USA, full canvassing in jackets, and mother-of-pearl buttons. The details make a difference—you can see it in person.

Women’s, accessories and licenses

The women’s collection is growing steadily, although it’s still smaller than the men’s. In addition, there are accessories, a children’s line, and quite a few licenses: eyewear (Luxottica), fragrances (Interparfums), home products (Turko Textiles). A nice addition, but it’s important to remember that not everything is produced directly by Brooks Brothers.

Quality, fit, and personalization

Since 2020, the creative direction has been led by Michael Bastian, who modernizes the classics without straying from the brand’s roots. The campaign for the 125th anniversary of the button-down shirt (2025) demonstrated that the company still focuses on its icons. The “Make It Yours” service (2026) allows customers to personalize clothing, monograms, and fabric choices. It’s a sensible direction, as people want something of their own, not just a standard off-the-rack option.

Brick-and-mortar stores and flagships

The new flagship at 195 Broadway in New York (opening in 2025) is a true symbol of this strategy: large, prestigious, and offering the full range. At the same time, they are developing selected locations, such as the Boston store on Newbury Street, which also got a facelift this year. But in general, you won’t find hundreds of stores like before. The company has chosen quality over quantity.

Online shopping and wholesale channels

The main shopping channel is brooksbrothers.com, which serves not only the USA but also Europe and Asia. Estimates suggest that e-commerce GMV could reach 162-211 million USD in 2025. Recently, Brooks Brothers ( under the wing of Catalyst Brands) has also been expanding its wholesale distribution—you can find their products in selected multi-brand stores.

Disputes, myths, and image

Brooks Brothers for two decades has had its share in events that, although sometimes independent of the company, have raised questions about its image and actual quality. Let’s take a look at the most notable ones.

Famous controversies and their context

• 1861-1865, “shoddy scandal”: The company supplied the Union with uniforms made from fabric using wool waste (so-called shoddy), which fell apart after the first wash. The settlement amounted to about $45,000 for approximately 2,350 pieces. Since this scandal, the word “shoddy” has been used in English as a pejorative term for poor quality.
• 2000, “Brooks Brothers riot”: The media used this name for the protesting crowd during the vote recount in Florida—because of the formal attire of the participants. The brand itself was not involved in the incident, but the name entered history.
• 2020: The McCloskey couple, photographed with firearms, were wearing Brooks Brothers clothing. The company quickly distanced itself, explaining that it does not support any political stances. That same year, bankruptcy and sale to SPARC ($325 million) were announced.

Discussions about quality and production

On vintage forums, there is a widespread belief that old collections were incomparably more durable. The closure of factories before 2020 has reinforced this narrative. The brand responds by curating its assortment, referencing the 125th anniversary of the button-down, and offering shirt personalization. In fact, it has dressed nearly every US president since James Madison (exceptions: Carter, Reagan).

“shoddy” – a pejorative term for poor quality, derived from the uniform scandal during the Civil War era.

Reputation can therefore be controversial, but the company still emphasizes heritage, rightsize, and style icons.

American classics that evolve to endure

Since 1818, Brooks Brothers has gone through bankruptcies, ownership changes, and fashion revolutions, yet it still stands as a synonym for the American suit. That’s no coincidence. Brands like this survive not by fighting against time, but by making use of it. B utton-down, which they designed almost a hundred years ago, is now worn by people who have never even heard of preppy, and the latest collections reach customers through online platforms the brand’s founders could never have dreamed of.

In the era of fast fashion, where trends die after a season, the existence of a company with a two-hundred-year heritage seems almost anarchic. But that’s precisely why Brooks Brothers makes sense. People shop here not because they have to, but because they want a piece of something lasting.

And that is probably enough of a reason to exist.

Mark99

lifestyle & fashion editorial team

Luxury Blog