More fashion, less provocation – a new era for Balenciaga

As is well known, the industry has a long memory. It’s been a few months since the scandal involving the brand’s inappropriate campaign, which almost ruined its reputation worldwide. Headlines accusing the brand of promoting pedophilia are still making waves. Because of this, Balenciaga, after pulling the campaign and issuing an official apology, withdrew from the media for a while. Some even speculated that this was the end of the iconic brand.

The brand appeared at Paris Fashion Week, fully aware that the entire fashion world was waiting for it to stumble. That’s why this time it opted for minimalism. The usual spectacular show was replaced with a simple set design. The focus was placed entirely on the clothes. “Fashion has become a form of entertainment, but often that aspect overshadows its essence”, read one of the notes left for guests at the show. Has Balenciaga set out on a path to redemption? Or is this just a purely media-driven strategy meant to distract from its previous reputation?

An enigmatic image

Long before last year’s scandal, Balenciaga was already known as a brand famous for pushing fashion boundaries. Showcasing its experimental designs, such as the “Full Destroyed” sneaker collection, it received a very mixed response from the media. Nevertheless, in terms of sales and turnover, this image seemed to work in the brand’s favor. Almost every Balenciaga experiment ended up selling out every single piece. It’s also worth noting that consumers were willing to pay astronomical prices for the showcased clothes and accessories, which were often deliberately distorted.

And although for a long time the label was selling better than the product itself, the latest campaign put an end to these experiments. Balenciaga, which usually shocked the public, this time crossed the line of social acceptance. It seems, then, that with its gentle comeback and an entirely new character of the show, it wants to redeem itself in the eyes of the public. Certainly, giving up controversial tools could be the beginning of that process. But can Balenciaga still be the same brand if it focuses on simplicity rather than originality? We’ll probably find out soon.

What was the Balenciaga fall/winter 2023 collection like?

As we mentioned, during the Paris Fashion Week, the brand opted out of dramatic concepts, such as a runway covered in mud or a staged snowstorm. This season, the set design was minimalist, and the runway itself was a pristine ivory carpet. The show took place in an event space inside the Carrousel du Louvre shopping center, which until the early 2000s was a frequent venue for fashion shows.

Current creative director Demna Gvasalia demonstrates that the brand still has plenty to offer in terms of pure fashion. The collection featured 54 looks . Among them were sharply tailored suits, evening gowns, and a new handbag called the Huge Bag. Subtle, feminine touches made the collection feel more human and approachable.

Still, it radiated the brand’s spirit, featuring classic motifs such as sequin gowns with high necklines, boxy leather jackets, oversized layers of denim, and bug-eyed sunglasses.

The models walked the runway dressed in a playful mix of floral dresses, signature structural tailoring, and elements straight out of street fashion. The brand’s streetwear influences were evident, for example, in the addition of a hoodie with puffed forms sewn into the sleeves. The entire show was accompanied by gentle piano notes, which gradually became more electronic as the presentation progressed.

“The idea was to be 200 percent myself,” Demna told journalists backstage after the show. “My intention was to purify it, to edit it down to the point where it speaks for itself.” The show presented by Balenciaga was certainly a step toward repairing the brand’s tarnished image. Hopefully not the last one.