How to check an original Hermès bag – a practical guide

You buy a Birkin for 15,000 euros, and after six months you find out it’s a fake. Sounds like a nightmare? For hundreds of collectors, it’s reality. The global counterfeit market reached a value of $467 billion in 2021, and Hermès is at the very center of this phenomenon.

Hermès is a unique case in the world of luxury. The brand produces only about 70,000 bags a year, each one hand-stitched by a single artisan. Prices start at $10,000–12,000 in official sales, while some models on the secondary market fetch over $500,000. In 2025, a Birkin prototype broke the record, selling for €8.6 million.

This combination (limited supply + astronomical prices + symbolic status) means that:

• Up to 90% of Birkin and Kelly offers online are counterfeits
• “Superfakes” have emerged, whose quality passes superficial tests
• Even experienced collectors can make mistakes when buying second-hand

In the following sections, we will show you specific checkpoints on the bag and suggest where to have it authenticated. Because intuition alone is not enough when the stakes reach tens of thousands.

photo: hermes.com

How to authenticate an original Hermès bag: stamps, stitching, hardware, leather, and shape

The original Hermès bag is the result of many precise details that must be checked methodically. It’s not about the “overall impression,” but about specific checkpoints that experts verify within minutes.

Stamps and codes: what needs to match

photo: hermes.com

On every bag, you will find the main stamp: ” HERMÈS PARIS MADE IN FRANCE ” in three descending lines. The letters have even kerning (spacing), the engraving is thin and sharp, and the accent over the “È” is subtle, not thick. Inside, near the interior of the bag, there is a blind stamp (date code), which has evolved over time:

Example: U (without a shape) stands for the year 2022. The letter must correspond to the year of production and the appearance of the bag.

photo: hermes.com

Stitches, hardware, and leather: marks of craftsmanship

Stitches are hand-sewn, saddle stitch: 8-10 stitches per inch, set at an angle of about 18°, even and waxed. Check the handles and the flap—this is where looseness or unevenness shows up first. Hardware (buckles, zippers) is made of precious metal, with no tarnish; the zipper moves smoothly like a watch, and the “HERMÈS” engraving is parallel to the edge. Keys and clochette fit together perfectly.

Leather has a natural texture and scent. Togo (matte, grained), Epsom (firmer, embossed). The bag stands upright on its feet, and the handles stay vertical.

Myth: Hermès does not issue authenticity cards. No “orange cards” with a guarantee. If a seller shows you one, walk away.

photo: hermes.com

Risk scale and where the pitfalls lie

The Hermès secondary market is a minefield. Up to 90% of online listings for Birkin or Kelly are counterfeits, which sounds dramatic, but in my experience, this might even underestimate the reality. Globally, we’re talking about $467 billion (2021) — that’s the value of the counterfeit market. Most superfakes come from China and Turkey, where replication technology has reached a level at which even experienced collectors get lost in the details.

photo: hermes.com

Professional verification: options and limitations

Here we have several paths, although none offers one hundred percent certainty:

• LegitCheck/LegitApp – AI-based, claim 99%+ accuracy
• RealAuthentication – two independent experts, provide 99.9%
• UV microscopy and analysis – support decision-making, but do not replace the human eye

The ultimate test: if the Hermès boutique refuses to accept the bag for servicing (“Hermès spa”), you can be almost certain it’s a counterfeit.

Hermès does not use NFC, blockchain, or digital passports, which sets it apart from the industry trend. LVMH Aura shows the direction the rest of the luxury sector is heading, and digital passports could be a game changer in authentication.

photo: hermes.com

Confidence that pays off

Authenticity of a Hermès bag is not just a matter of status, but also of financial common sense. You’re investing an amount that could serve as a down payment on an apartment, so it’s worth making sure you’re buying genuine craftsmanship, not a well-made counterfeit. With the practical tips from this guide, you can assess the key details yourself before deciding to make a purchase.

photo: hermes.com

Checking a bag is a simple process when you know what to look for. You don’t need a gemologist’s certificate to spot asymmetrical stitching or a cheap buckle. Your eyes and some basic knowledge are enough.

Ann Mi

Luxury Blog editorial team