“Black Swan” by Chanel

Parisian fashion house Chanel has gone into mourning after the quiet, unexpected passing of its creative director. Virginie Viard is Chanel’s symbolic “black swan”. Just three weeks after its shocking resignation, the brand presented its latest haute couture collection at a show shrouded in an aura of melancholy and controversy. The very venue of the show – the majestic Opéra Garnier – seemed to reflect the somber mood of the event. The absence of Viard at the show, a woman who shaped Chanel’s vision for nearly three decades, was like a painful accent highlighting her absence not only from the collection, but from the brand as a whole.

The spring-summer 2024/25 collection, titled “Black Swan,” thus seemed to be a symbolic farewell to Viard. Black – the color of mourning and melancholy – dominated. Heavy satin gowns, like mourning coats, floated down the catwalk like ghosts of Chanel’s former glory. Even the first and last look from the collection – a black satin gown cut perfectly for a doge’s funeral in Venice – emphasized the drama of the situation. The show, though refined in every detail, left observers feeling empty and unsatisfied. It also lacked the sparkle, brilliance and joy that so characterized Chanel’s collections under Karl Lagerfeld.

The shadow of a giant and the pressure to succeed

Virginie Viard spent years shaping herself in Karl Lagerfeld’s shadow, becoming his right hand and confidante of secrets. In 2019, after the master’s death, she faced quite a challenge – taking over the helm of Chanel, one of the most recognizable fashion houses in the world. Initially, she coped admirably. Under her watchful eye, the brand flourished, reaching record sales of nearly $20 billion in 2023. However, over time, the first criticisms emerged. Repetitive designs were whispered about, and lacked the spark and freshness that characterized Lagerfeld’s collections.

The climax came in May, when a “cruise” show in Marseille disappointed fans. The cold Côte d’Azur weather was not conducive to summer creations, and Internet users bluntly expressed their displeasure, questioning Viard’s vision and accusing her of a lack of talent. A month later, in the middle of the night, Viard’s departure from Chanel was announced in a laconic press release.

It is also accepted in the fashion world that departing designers say goodbye to the brand with a lavish show, as if it were a last bow to fans and the industry. Viard, however, did not take advantage of this opportunity. She was reportedly so shocked by the dismissal decision that she hurriedly left the office at Chanel’s headquarters in rue Cambon, leaving a storm of emotions behind her. Finally, the collection for the spring-summer 2024/25 season was completed by Chanel’s in-house design team. Although the collection was far from “vintage” status, it was met with moderate acclaim.

“Black Swan” by Chanel

Chanel’s “Black Swan” show opened with the melancholy song “Sympathy” by the 1960s band Rare Bird. The song’s lyrics, which speak of “cold and darkness,” perfectly captured the atmosphere of the collection, infused with a hint of melancholy and coldness. Models, like bored mannequins, walked the runway in simple suits. Jackets devoid of the classic four pockets, fastened at the neck and decorated with haberdashery, were juxtaposed with pleated skirts reaching before the knees. Minimalist cuts and muted colors – black, white and beige – also emphasized the austere and cool character of the collection.

Another element of the show was Chanel’s classic jackets with short necklines and flap pockets. This time the fashion house opted for shades of eggplant and Queen of England peach, adding some warmth and femininity to the collection. However, the real gems of the show came at the end. Metallic cocktail dresses with lambskin sleeves were stunning in their sparkle and originality. The absolute star of the show became a fabulous latex dress in ecru, finished with white coq feathers and a sequined bodice. This creation, like a symbol of hope, illuminated the gloomy atmosphere of the collection and gave hope for a better tomorrow.

Viard thus leaves Chanel shrouded in a shadow of insinuation and speculation. Paris-based designer Lutz Huelle defended the designer, stressing the enormity of the challenge she faced in replacing an icon of Lagerfeld’s ilk. “Regardless of one’s assessment of her achievements, no one can deny that she faced an impossible situation,” he – Huelle commented. The question remains, however, Whether the pressure of Lagerfeld’s legacy proved to be too heavy a burden, and she herself failed to live up to the fashion giant’s expectations? Time will tell what the future of Chanel will bring without her creative genius.